My Best Advice on Anti-Aging Skincare

For those of you who want to preserve your skin, prevent further sun damage, or invest in procedures (botulinum injections, fillers, lasers, peels), it’s smart to protect your skin (and your results) with the right products. Although not an instant improvement (usually individuals notice a difference in about 90 days), a smart line-up is essential to anyone interested in maintaining or improving the health and appearance of their skin. In fact, almost everyone over the age of 20 can benefit from education and direction towards clinically-proven efficacious products.

Cosmeceuticals have been of interest to me since residency. I continue to be the go-to gal for colleagues sending patients interested in skincare, as I have made it my business to scrutinize product science in deciding whether it was bonafide, or just another “snake oil”. I have developed a reputation among product reps in the field, as they either love me or hate me.  After twenty years of experience, my conclusion is that the right skin care products can certainly make a difference in your appearance. It’s my job to help you navigate which products will help you to look your very best.

In the world of skin lotions, potions, supplements, there are three main classes:

• Prescriptions– a health care provider’s written authorization for a patient to purchase a prescription drug from a pharmacist or other authorized dispensing agent.
• Cosmetics– products used to cleanse and beautify the skin (what you can buy over-the-counter at Walgreen’s or Nordstrom).
• Cosmeceuticals– cosmetics with “drug-like” effects. This third category is not formally recognized by the FDA, however. Many of these products require supervision under the guidance of a medical license, as they are much more potent(effective) than what you can buy over-the-counter. These are typically found in physician’s offices and some Medispas. Products in this category are typically categorized as anti-aging skin care products.

The Perfect Skin Essential Youth Maintenance Program

• Sunscreen:If you use only one anti-aging skin care product for your skin, it should be a broad-spectrum, daily sunscreen. Our picks:

Nia 24 UVA/UVB sunscreen or Nia 24 100% Mineral Sunscreen: not only protects your skin, but it contains pro-niacinamide, which strengthens the skin barrier, builds collagen, decreases inflammation, and lightens pigmentation. Why not use something that not only protects your skin but reverses photo-damage? A perfect pick to combat retinoid(ol) irritation, as it directly counteracts these inflammatory side effects.

Colorescience Sunforgettable: a mineral powder sunscreen that works well for those who are active and perspiring (avoid sunscreen lotions as they sting eyes), or acne-prone (doesn’t clog pores). Comes with a tint, so it doesn’t look paste-y on your skin, or in a bronze tint. This product has a retractable brush as part of the mechanism and is great to keep in your purse or golf bag for touch-ups.

Skin Medical Total Defense and Repair: a broad-spectrum sunscreen that also incorporates infra-red (heat) protection. Recent studies show that melasma and other abnormal pigment production can be triggered by, not only UVA and UVB rays, but also by visible sunlight and infra-red waves. This is your safest bet if you are pigment-prone.

Colorescience Even-up: This is the one I personally use. It’s replaced Laura Mercier, Bobbi Brown, and every other foundation in my make-up drawer. Even-up is Colorescience’s latest, greatest answer to broad-spectrum sunscreen (including infra-red protection), mineral fusion (improves skin texture), color coverage (but not too much), and gentle lighteners to give you the most flawless finish. This is the answer for those individuals who want a fresh, not overdone appearance, and for those of us over 50, where too much makeup starts to make us look a whole lot older than we are. At $120, it is not cheap, but once you try it, you’ll never go back. This product is anti-aging skin care at its best, addressing multiple aspects of an aging complexion.

• Antioxidants:offer an added degree of sun-protection, repair DNA breakage that can lead to skin cancer, increase collagen production, and lighten skin discoloration caused by sun. Your skin color looks more even, and fine wrinkles are diminished. This product is also a must as preventative care for individuals with a history or at-risk for skin cancers.

Our Picks:

IS Clinical ProHeal Serum: a potent vitamin C formulation with additional antioxidant olive leaf extract, best suited for dry skin types.

IS Clinical Super Serum: contains vitamin C and anti-aging pentapeptides, better for oily skin or for use during the summer months.

Skin Medica TNS Essential Serum: a potent blend of antioxidants packaged together with human-derived growth factor.

• Growth Factors:cellular components that are in abundance in early youth and slowly diminish over time. These direct the cell to act “younger”, causing collagen production, resiliency, and better healing. Results are fewer wrinkles and more luminous skin. I prefer the human-derived variety, as these result in the ultimate balance of many distinct growth factors, emulating the balance we all had as infants. I liken this difference to that between human breast milk and formula (Enfamil or Similac): as much as companies try to reproduce the nutrients in mother’s milk, they can never quite replicate it. It’s the same with the human-derived vs. synthetic growth factors.

Our Picks:

Skin Medica TNS Essential Serum: a two-in-one product, containing both pure human growth factors and a potent blend of antioxidants.

Skin Medica TNS Recovery Complex: a mix of pure human growth factors alone. Best for acne-prone skin and those who prefer a serum antioxidant separately instead of in a combined product.

• Retinoids/ols:Increase collagen production, normalize skin keratinization(maturation), reduce abnormal pigment. Important as part of any anti-skin cancer and skin care regimen.Clinically proven to normalize skin and to reverse the signs of aging by building collagen. Retinoids are only available by prescription. Retinols cause less-irritation than and, over time, produce similar effects to more-potent retinoids.

Our picks:

Retinoids: Refissa Cream 0.05%. This formulation is more emollient, and thereby less-drying, than the typical Tretinoin(Retin-A ) used for acne-prone skin.

Retinols: Skin Medica Retinol Complex 0.5%, 1.0%. I’ve found these to be the most effective retinols on the market. Typically less-expensive (and less-irritating) than prescription Retinoids.

I could write for hours about efficacious, anti-aging skin care products, and our office is knowledgeable and always available to answer your questions and help you navigate. Call us, email us, tell us what you need! We always offer free shipping our products.